What to measure
Clear water is not necessarily healthy water: ammonia and nitrite are invisible. Test kits, as strips or liquid reagents (more accurate), are part of the basic equipment. OATA advises testing at least once a week, and more often when the tank is new or after new fish arrive.
| Parameter | What it shows | Guideline |
|---|---|---|
| Ammonia (NH₃/NH₄⁺) | Fish waste not yet processed | Zero; never more than 0.02 mg/L of free ammonia (OATA) |
| Nitrite (NO₂⁻) | Intermediate step of the nitrogen cycle | Zero; never more than 0.2 mg/L (OATA) |
| Nitrate (NO₃⁻) | End product of the cycle, builds up | Less than 50 mg/L above tap water (OATA) |
| pH | Acidity of the water | Depends on the species, usually between 6 and 8 |
| GH | General hardness: calcium and magnesium | Depends on the species |
| KH | Carbonates: pH stability | Prevents sudden pH crashes |
| Temperature | Fish metabolism | Depends on the species, often 24 to 27 °C |
| Dissolved oxygen | Breathing | At least 6 mg/L (OATA) |
pH: acidic or alkaline
pH measures the acidity of water on a scale from 0 to 14: 7 is neutral, below that the water is acidic, above it is basic (also called alkaline). The scale is logarithmic: water at pH 6 is ten times more acidic than water at pH 7, and a hundred times more than water at pH 8.
Each species has adapted to a specific environment: the acidic, very mineral-poor rivers of Amazonia for many tetras, rather hard water for the livebearers of Central America, the very alkaline lakes of the African Rift for the cichlids of Malawi and Tanganyika.
GH and KH: hardness
GH (general hardness) measures dissolved calcium and magnesium ions: it is what makes water “hard” and leaves limescale. KH (carbonate hardness, sometimes called alkalinity) measures carbonates and bicarbonates. They neutralise the acids produced in the tank, notably by nitrification: with a very low KH, the pH can crash suddenly.
Aquarium tests and Aquarius profiles give hardness in German degrees (°dGH and °dKH). Water reports may use other units: French degrees (°f) in France, or milligrams per litre of calcium carbonate (mg/L CaCO₃, also called ppm) in many other countries. One German degree equals 10 mg/L of calcium oxide, or 17.8 mg/L of calcium carbonate, and one French degree 10 mg/L of calcium carbonate. So 1 °dGH ≈ 1.78 °f ≈ 17.8 mg/L CaCO₃: a hardness of 200 mg/L CaCO₃ (20 °f) is about 11 °dGH.
°dGH (aquarium tests, Aquarius profiles)
°f (French degrees, used in French water reports)
- Very soft0-7 °f (≈ 0-3.9 °dGH)
- Soft7-15 °f (≈ 3.9-8.4 °dGH)
- Moderately hard15-30 °f (≈ 8.4-16.8 °dGH)
- Hard30-40 °f (≈ 16.8-22.4 °dGH)
- Very hardover 40 °f (≈ 22.4 °dGH)
CO₂, KH and pH
Dissolved CO₂, released by the breathing of fish and bacteria or injected for plants, forms carbonic acid and lowers the pH. When the KH is known, the pH therefore gives an estimate of CO₂: CO₂ ≈ 3 × KH × 10^(7 − pH), in mg/L with the KH in °dKH.
| KH \ pH | 6.2 | 6.4 | 6.6 | 6.8 | 7 | 7.2 | 7.4 | 7.6 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 °d | 19 | 12 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
| 2 °d | 38 | 24 | 15 | 10 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 2 |
| 3 °d | 57 | 36 | 23 | 14 | 9 | 6 | 4 | 2 |
| 4 °d | 76 | 48 | 30 | 19 | 12 | 8 | 5 | 3 |
| 6 °d | 114 | 72 | 45 | 29 | 18 | 11 | 7 | 5 |
| 8 °d | 151 | 96 | 60 | 38 | 24 | 15 | 10 | 6 |
| 10 °d | 189 | 119 | 75 | 48 | 30 | 19 | 12 | 8 |
- Under 10 mg/L: enough for easy plants
- 10 to 15 mg/L: “Medium” plants
- 15 to 30 mg/L: demanding plants
- Over 30 mg/L: watch how the fish breathe
According to Tropica, “easy” plants do without added CO₂, although a little (3 to 5 mg/L) is better than nothing; “Medium” plants need 10 to 15 mg/L and the most demanding 15 to 30 mg/L. To follow CO₂ without calculating, a drop checker filled with a 4 °dKH reference solution turns green between about 25 and 35 mg/L.
Adapting the water, or the fish
The simplest and most stable approach is to choose fish suited to your tap water. Hard, alkaline water suits livebearers, rainbowfish or African cichlids; soft water suits tetras, rasboras and corydoras. The simulator filters the catalogue precisely by your pH, GH and temperature.
If you are set on species from different water, change it gradually and prepare the water for changes in the same way:
- Soften: mix tap water with reverse osmosis or demineralised water, measuring the resulting GH and KH. Pure reverse osmosis water has no buffering capacity left.
- Acidify gently: peat in the filter, roots and catappa leaves release humic acids that lower the pH and tint the water amber.
- Harden: coral sand or limestone rocks (they fizz when vinegar is dropped on them) raise the GH, KH and pH.
- Avoid “pH down” or “pH up” products used on their own: without acting on the KH, they cause sudden swings.
Key points
- Test the water at least once a week: ammonia and nitrite at zero, nitrate low.
- pH measures acidity, GH calcium and magnesium, KH the carbonates that stabilise the pH.
- 1 °dGH ≈ 1.78 °f ≈ 17.8 mg/L CaCO₃: convert the hardness from your water report to get the GH.
- Choose fish suited to your water rather than correcting it all the time.
Sources
- OATA, “Water quality criteria”
- OATA, “How to test water quality in your freshwater tank”
- Wikipedia (French), “Dureté de l’eau”
- French Ministry of Health, drinking water quality by town
- Tropica, “Fertiliser and CO2”
- Aquarium Science, “Measuring CO2”
- University of Florida (UF/IFAS), “Ammonia in Aquatic Systems”
Written by Aquarius from these sources. They do not replace a vet's advice.