Practical guide

Temperature and equipment

Choosing the tank, heater, filter and lighting, and understanding why warm water quickly runs short of oxygen.

4 min read

Contents

The tank and where to put it

Get the largest tank you can set up, bearing in mind the adult size of the fish. A large volume of water is more stable: temperature, pH and waste change more slowly than in a small tank. For the same volume, a wide, shallow tank offers more surface for oxygen exchange than a tall one.

  • Away from direct sunlight, radiators and draughts, which make the temperature swing and encourage algae.
  • On a level, sturdy stand designed for the weight of the full tank: a litre of water weighs a kilo, not counting the glass, substrate and decor.
  • Away from noise, vibration and busy walkways, and within reach of a socket and a tap for maintenance.
120 L

Filter flow

360 to 600 L/h

3 to 5 times the volume per hour (Tropica), a little more for heavy eaters.

Heater

100 W

Guideline from the manufacturer EHEIM; allow more if the room is cold.

Lighting

1,200 to 2,400 lm

10 to 20 lumens per litre for easy plants, 2,400 to 4,800 lm for “Medium” plants (Tropica).

Lighting period

6 h, then 8 to 10 h

6 hours a day for the first two to three weeks, then 8 to 10 hours (Tropica).

Weekly water change

12 to 30 L

10 to 25% of the volume every week (OATA).

Weight of the water alone

120 kg

A litre of water weighs a kilo: add the glass, substrate and decor when choosing the stand.

Orders of magnitude for a freshwater tank, to be adjusted according to the stock and plants.

Heating and temperature

Most tropical fish live between 24 and 28 °C; each species’ range is given on its profile. A thermostatic heater, placed near the filter outlet to spread the heat, keeps the water at this temperature. Check it with a separate thermometer, in case the thermostat fails.

PowerRecommended volume
25 W20 to 25 L
50 W25 to 60 L
75 W60 to 100 L
100 W100 to 150 L
150 W200 to 300 L
200 W300 to 400 L
Power ratings recommended by EHEIM for its thermocontrol heaters. In a cool room, go one size up; in a large tank, two heaters spread the heat better and take over if one fails.

Oxygen and water movement

Oxygen enters the water through the surface: the more it is agitated, the faster the exchange. Yet the amount of oxygen water can hold falls as it warms up. At 25 °C, saturated water holds only 8.3 mg/L.

tropical tank67891015 °C20 °C25 °C30 °Cmg/Lrecommended minimum: 6 mg/L9.18.37.6
Dissolved oxygen at saturation in fresh water at sea level (USGS tables, Benson and Krause equation). OATA recommends at least 6 mg/L: a tropical tank has only a small margin, used up by the fish, the filter bacteria and the plants at night.

Fish that stay at the surface with their mouths open are short of oxygen. Point the filter outlet towards the surface so that it ripples, or add an air stone connected to a small pump.

Filtration

The filter moves the water, traps particles and above all houses the bacteria of the nitrogen cycle. No fish should live without a well-maintained filter. The water usually passes through several layers:

  1. Mechanical

    sponge, filter wool

    Traps particles. Rinse as soon as the flow drops.

  2. Biological

    ceramic, coarse sponge

    Houses the bacteria. Rinse only in tank water.

  3. Chemical

    optional: activated carbon

    Removes dyes and traces of medication. Gets used up, replace it.

Order of the filter media: particles are stopped before they reach the bacteria’s home.
Filter typeFor which tankGood to know
InternalSmall and medium tanksCheap, but takes up space in the tank
External (canister)Medium to large tanksPlenty of room for filter media, quiet, hidden in the stand
Hang-on-backSmall and medium tanksEasy to maintain; agitates the surface well
Sponge and air pumpSmall tanks, fry, shrimpGentle current, does not suck in small animals

Tropica advises a flow of 3 to 5 times the tank volume per hour: 450 to 750 L/h for 150 litres. The flow stated on the box is measured without filter media; the real flow is lower. Small or long-finned fish, such as the betta, prefer a gentle current.

Lighting

Light is for the plants and for our enjoyment; the fish mainly need a regular day and night rhythm. To compare lights, Tropica advises looking at lumens rather than watts: 10 to 20 lumens per litre are enough for easy plants, 20 to 40 for “Medium” plants, and over 40 for the most demanding.

In a new tank, Tropica recommends 6 hours of light a day for the first two to three weeks, then 8 to 10 hours. A timer plug keeps the schedule constant.

The starter list

The tank

  • Glass or acrylic aquarium
  • Stand built for the weight
  • Lid

The equipment

  • Filter
  • Thermostatic heater and thermometer
  • Lighting (essential for plants)

Maintenance

  • Water conditioner
  • Tests: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and hardness
  • Gravel siphon and a bucket kept for the tank

The substrate, plants and decor are covered in the next lesson.

Key points

  • A large tank is more stable than a small one: plan for the adult size of the fish.
  • Allow a filter flow of 3 to 5 times the volume per hour and a heater suited to the volume.
  • Warm water holds less oxygen: agitate the surface, especially in summer.
  • Start with 6 hours of light a day, then 8 to 10 hours once the tank is established.

Sources

Written by Aquarius from these sources. They do not replace a vet's advice.